This collection, “chasing evil”, is centred around the exploitation of Congo and Africa as a whole, through research in Bukavu and Kinshasa by working closely with war victims and understanding how a country so strong and rich (3 times the size of Nigeria and 3 times richer in natural resources), seeks to overcome issues of post-war trauma, post-colonial exploitation as well as neo-colonialism through fashion in particular.

Through indigenous spirituality, we discover a connecting link with the Congolese mystical idol Nkisi Nkondi, an aggressive fetish figurine commonly used to affirm oaths and to protect communities from evildoers and enemies. We find that the only way to chase evil is through unity across borders and truly believing in the works of our hands. Thereby examining, the act of placing particular importance in physical appearance or dressing up as an act or form of protection and in essence a fetish.

Colours and forms highlight the popular Congolese Sapeur sub-culture, sape gotten from french slang “to dress up” alternatively meaning Society of Ambiance and Elegant people, began at the start of the slave trade, where colonisers would pay slaves with clothes as opposed to money, a society dominated by men. A concept derived from the 18th-century practice commonly known as “Dandies”.

Demonstrated by creating textured surfaces referencing Congolese raffia clothes in interrupting expected lines, by weaving dried Palm leaf raffia from Congo and Nigeria with unbleached cotton from Uganda, as well as weaving acrylic dyed yarn and cotton, establishing juxtapositions of sharply differing units and abrupt shifts of forms, with dyed recycled cotton and deconstructed recycled garments. Bag accessories were made from Banana raffia from Madagascar and shoes dyed vegan leopard skin made in Nigeria. We collaborated with Kenyan jewellery designer, Brian Kivuti, using camel bone and recycled silver, to create a range of dual-functional rings earrings and brooches.

Credits

Creative Direction Bubu Ogisi
Photography Maganga Mwagogo
Stylist Sunny Dolat
Model Gabriella Duduh
Makeup Jamie Kimani